Saturday, November 21, 2015

Classic Wargame Rules Free

Here is a page with downloadable copies of old Wargames Research Group rules. These are on the WRG website and are offered by the publishers free. There is also the history of the Wargames research group. Includes the older Ancients rules, World War II, and Horse and Musket eras. The re are also downloads of their popular DBA ancients rules. Find them here:
Some of these rule sets are long out of print.
 
 

Friday, November 20, 2015

Review: Fighting Techniques of the Ancient World

I just finished reading Fighting Techniques of the Ancient World. 3000 BC - 500 ad Equipment, Combat Skills and Tactics. It was very informative and a pleasure to read. I did not have to flip back and forth to other references and such, which is often a problem with this type of book. The material was presented with the reader in mind. The excellent text was supported with copious illustrations.
 
Good examples were chosen to reflect the different types of warfare in this era. The reader can easily follow the evolution of warfare from the most ancient times to the end of the Roman Empire. The book took on this vast subject in sections: Infantry, Cavalry, Command and Control, Siege Warfare and Naval Warfare. The various types of troops and maneuvers were discussed, as were advances and changes in battle techniques. Readers get more than an overview, yet are spared mind-numbing minutiae.
 
Fighting Techniques of the Ancient World covers the tactical and strategic levels of combat. If you want to get a feel for warfare in the Ancient era from start to finish, this book will do it for you. You may also find it a good starting point from which to look more deeply into specific conflicts and nations.
 
There is very little on individual fighting techniques.
 
I have a few of these books, but only had time to read one other in this series. Fighting Techniques of the Colonial Era covered warfare from the time of the American Revolution into the early 20th Century. It was also very readable, dealing with everything from Colonial revolutions to warfare in exotic places. The places included North and South America, Asia and Africa. A great variety, indeed, but fascinating.
 
I recommend both books, if only for their readability. I still have two to read: Fighting Techniques of the Oriental World and Fighting Techniques of the Medieval World.
 
Next book in the slot: Warfare in the Classical World by John Warry. This book has been waiting on the shelf for a while. I hope to get a different viewpoint of Ancient Warfare.
 
**********
My first uniform book for the Ancient times is Weapons and Warriors 3000Bc to 1500 AD by Niels Saxtorph. I bought it almost 40 years ago. Like many of the old Blandford uniform books, it gives a pretty good look at the various armies of the era. Granted, there are a few small errors, such as the Viking chief in horned helmet. However, it is overall a very interesting work with great illustrations. (The Dark Ages 600 to 1066 by Ian Heath is another good one, though it covers the end of the Roman Empire to the Battle of Hastings. I bought it about the same time.)
 
Another good overview of uniforms is Arms and Uniforms vol I - Ancient Egypt to the 18th Century by L & F Funcken. In fact, many of its drawings look to have been improved and used in Saxtorph’s work. The coverage of the Ancient era is excellent. (They goofed on the Vikings, by the way. Obviously, I have a lot of books on Vikings.)
 
One that arrived recently is An Illustrated Encyclopedia of The Uniforms of the Roman World. It is one of several of the Encyclopedia of Uniforms series. The series itself is a mixed bag, and the "Encyclopedia" part is not quite accurate. The Roman book covers from the time of Horatio at the Gates to the later years of the Byzantine Empire. The illustrations are beautiful, though purists claim that there are a few inaccuracies. For those interested in the appearances of troops, armies and enemies of the Roman era, this is a good resource.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday, October 24, 2015

Classic Hand-to-Hand Combat

Here is a reprint of an article illustrating some of the hand-to-hand combat that was developed in World war II. W.E. Fairbairn put together a set of simple, basic techniques for the Home Guard. He also taught these to the OSS at Fort Richie, PA. The combat tricks in this old article are effective and have stood the test of time. If you use them you do so at your own risk.
 
 
COMMANDO COMBAT
Reprinted from the Ordnance Soldier’s Guide, published by the Ordnance Replacement Training Center, Aberdeen Proving Grounds, Maryland, circa 1943, 1944
 
Although this is a war or machines, It is also a war of men. Hand-to-hand combat is an ever-present possibility. To help you take care of yourself In an emergency, we have condensed some excerpts from "Get Tough", a book written by Major W. E. Fair bairn of the British Army and published by D. Appleton-Century Company of New York. The methods of fighting shown here aren't pretty, but they're efficient. Just remember that you'll have to use the same tactics that your enemy uses - only you'll have to be better
 
First, you should learn that a blow struck with the edge of the hand is much mere deadly than a blow from a clenched fist. Always strike with the little-finger edge of the hand, using a chopping action from the elbow (Fig. I). You may swing vertically or side-ways, aiming for such points as the side or back of the wrist; the midpoint of the forearm; the biceps; the sides or back of the neck; the point just below the Adam's Apple, or the kidneys. Practice this blow by striking your own hand. (Fig. 2.)
 
In this fighting style, the counterpart of an uppercut is a Jab to the chin, delivered with the heel of the hand (Fig. 4). Wait until you're close to your opponent, and then drive your hand to his chin, with your fingers extended so as to reach his eyes (Fig.5). Again, you can practice on your own hand. The chin jab is most effective when combined with the dirtiest trick of fighting — a knee to the groin. Put the weight of your body on one leg, bend the knee of the other leg slightly, and drive your knee into your opponent's crotch. (Fig. 7.)
 
 
To overcome an enemy sentry, approach your opponent from behind and swing your left forearm against his throat, bearing on the Adam's Apple. At the same time, place your right elbow on his right shoulder, and place your right palm on the back of his head. Grasp your right biceps with your, loft hand and apply pressure. This will strangle him.(Fig. 9.)
 
Should he attempt resistance, change the position of your right hand so that the edge of your hard bears on the back of his head. A sharp pressure will then break his neck. (Fig. 10.)
 
In case you should become a prisoner, here's one way you can escape, using an ordinary penny matchbox as a weapon. Assume that you're sitting beside your captor, with a gun in your ribs. Grasp the box in your far hand, holding it as shown. (Fig. 11.) Quickly turn toward your opponent, sweeping the gun away with the near arm. Swing the clenched fist holding the match box so that it strikes your opponent behind the ear. Keep the arm straight, and make the movement as quickly as possible. (Fig. 12.) This usually results in a knockout blow.
 
To break a front strangle hold, (Fig. 13), grasp your opponent's right elbow with your left hand. With your right hand, reach across his arms and seize his right wrist. (Fig. 14.) Bear down on his left arm and swing his other arm toward your right side. (Fig, l5.) At the same time turn your body rapidly to the right. Finish up with an edge-of-the-hand blow to his right elbow. (Fig. 16.)
 
 
If he still shows signs of a fight, finish him off with the "Bronco Kick" This consists of a flying jump at your opponent. When jumping, bend your knees, (Fig.17), then when your feet are approximately eight inches above your opponent's body, straighten your legs, drive your heels into him and kill him. (Fig. 18.)
 
 
Copyright, 1942 by W.E. Fairbairn
 
This brief article was included in a small, mimeographed manual issued during World War II to Ordnance Personnel, circa 1943-1944. The manual included a variety of one and two page lessons on basic soldiering and ordnance work. Here is a link to the complete manual:
 
 
*****
Below are two additional techniques devised by Fairbairn.
 
 
Here is another choke defense. The soldier hits the extended arm in the crook of the elbow, and follows with a knee to the groin and an elbow to the face or chop to the neck. This is from a Danish manual that copied Fairbairn’s pictures. This could also be used against a push or grab.
 


The knee kick is simple. It is a thrust to the opponent’s knee. If he is still standing after the kick, scrape your boot down his shin and stomp his instep. Follow with a knee lift or chin jab. This picture is from Army Field Manual 21-150 Combatives, 1971 edition.
 
************
Some friends and I started looking into military systems of close combat back in the 1970s. Reprints of many of the old books became available thanks to companies like Desert Publications and Paladin Press. I also had a copy of FM 21-150 "Combatives" 1971 edition. I had learned that style of bayonet fighting and the riot baton in the Army. I later took a course with a former Marine who taught the system Dermot O’Neill taught in Shanghai.
 
The military techniques worked well enough. I used them several times in altercations. Though I was not always unscathed myself, I had the upper hand and was able to either dump the adversary or get out of trouble.
 
If you want to be an all-around kick-ass brawler, then take up a fighting sport or martial art. Expect to devote years to training and conditioning. Those who want to be neighborhood tough guys can start saving for bail money, medical bills, fines and legal fees. If you want to be able to handle a scuffle if it emerges, the military systems work well enough. A few sessions of training and occasional practice will suffice.
 
Fairbairn’s system is simple and easy to learn. It will not make you an MMA class fighter, but it will give you the means to defend yourself.
 
You may have wondered why Fairbairn does not teach a stance. In his method, a fighter went right into action. He used no stances.(Miyamoto Musashi, the 17th century Japanese Sword master who won 60 duels, said that a stance, or "attitude" is defensive. He urged moving aggressively, negating the need for a stance. I know from my own experience that a stance only warns the opponent that you are ready to fight.) There are no fancy kicks or complex throws. Fancy tricks are useless in a real fight.
 
(Back in the 80s, I was in a diner picking up containers of coffee. Through the window, I saw a plainclothes cop and his partner hassling some fellow on the street. The cop decided to show off. He whipped a couple of flashy kicks in the air. They might have flown in a dojo, but on the street in leather shoes they were awkward and the man fell on his ass. He hit the ground hard. He successfully hurt someone: himself. The fellow they tried to hassle walked away laughing while the cop’s partner radioed for medics. Fancy tricks are for the dojo, not the street.)
 
 
I have to caution readers that the methods taught by Fairbairn (and O’Neill, Styers, Applegate and Biddle) were meant to be used against a dangerous enemy. They can do serious harm to a person. Try them at your own risk. For instance, the choke / strangle taught by Fairbairn can do a lot of harm. Another nasty one is in FM-21-150, 1971 edition, in the Basic section. I have used both chokes and they will subdue an adversary like few other techniques. They can also kill or do permanent damage. Whatever you do with this information is entirely your responsibility. You have been warned.
 
 
Another piece of advice. Do not go showing off your new hand-to-hand skills at the local gin mill. At the best, you come off as a fool. At the worst, you catch a beating from someone who is a better fighter than you. Don’t think you are suddenly a super fighter, either. These lessons are for emergencies and they work best when they are a surprise.
 
 
I remember a fellow named Orville (or something like that) who had been a paratrooper. He was taught the later version of the O’Neill method in the late 1960s. The only hand strikes taught were chops and finger stabs. This fool was in a bar and overheard someone say he had studied karate. Orville kept goading the man to show his stance. The fellow finally reneged, probably just to get the clown to leave him alone. He did a stance that used closed fists. Orville thought martial arts only used the open hand, based on a few hours of instruction in Army Basic training. He accused the man of being a phoney and decided to teach him a lesson. Orville is the one who learned a lesson that day. The man he challenged had at least enough karate training to dump the ex-paratrooper.
 
 
A very wise man told me one of the best pieces of advice ever given: Don’t be stupid. Those words definitely apply here.
 
He who looks for trouble will eventually find more than he can handle.
 
 
You can find links to Applegate’s Kill or Get Killed and O’Neill’s later system here:
 
 
Here are two books worth reading:
 
 
Get Tough, also sold as All In Fighting
 
 
W.E. Fairbairn was commissioner of the Shanghai Municipal Police. He developed a hand to hand combat system for his officers. Fairbairn had degrees in Judo and Chinese Boxing. Later, he refined it for instruction to the Home Guard and military. The techniques in Get Tough, several of which were given in the above article, are easy to learn and easy to use. Get Tough and All in Fighting also include stick and knife techniques. The latter has additional info on bayonet and rifle shooting.
 
 
Charles Nelson Self-Defense: Great little system based on what O’Neill originally taught in Shanghai. I took lessons from Nelson many years ago. I still have my original copy of his "red book".
 
 
I assume no responsibility for your use of these techniques. You use them at your own risk. They are dangerous and can cause serious harm. This material is presented for information only.
 

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

OMOG and Our Other Games

OMOG and Other Games all at Once!
 
Here are two places from which you can download OMOG and our other toy soldier games
 
Jersey Shore Battle Games - easy games for kids and newcomers
Originally designed to play in the sand at the beach!
Operation Sandtrap War 2 to Present
Sandtrap Showdown Wild West and Civil War Game
Castle Cracker Medieval and Ancient game
Sandarticus Roman-era supplement to Castle Cracker
Muskets and Sandpiles revolutionary War and Alamo Game
Planetary Sand and Supplement for Space Games
Treasure of Sandheap Pirate Adventure game
Tanegashima Sandman rules for Samural Games
Sahara Sandstorm Foreign Legion and Colonial Era Game
OMOG - One Man One Gun Skirmish Games
OMOG Advanced 20th & 21st Century
OMOG 19C 19th century 1850-1900
OMOG Muskets 7101 - 1849
OMOK - One man One Knight Medieval Game
OMOG Oldstyle - Little Wars type game
This site also has other rules for Medieval, Franco-Prussian War, 20th century and Toy Soldier games.
      
Here is another place from which you can download OMOG and our other toy soldier games
Metalsmashing Medieval Wargame
Bucket O’ Muzzleblast Horse & Musket era Wargame
Hans und Panzer WW2 Armor / infantry Wargame
Hans und Panzer Afrika Korps Armor / infantry Wargame
Tankplank - armor-infantry wargame
Tankplank Advanced supplement (with Tankette Waltz)
OMOG - One Man One Gun Skirmish Games
OMOG Advanced 20th & 21st Century
OMOG 19C 19th century 1850-1900
OMOG Muskets 7101 - 1849
OMOK - One man One Knight Medieval Game
OMOG Oldstyle - Little Wars type game

Monday, September 28, 2015

Bucket O’ Muzzleblast - Miniature Wargame for 18th and 19th Century Battles

 
Among toy soldier collectors and wargamers, the era from 1740 to 1871 holds great fascination. More miniatures and game rules are sold for that era than for any other. Indeed, several of the most interesting conflicts in human history happened at that time. These include the Seven Years War, American Revolution, French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars, Crimean War and the American Civil War,
Back in 2005, I had the idea of making small, easy to learn wargames that we fun and fast paced. Bucket O’ Muzzleblast evolved from several old sets of wargame rules including one by Bob Bard for the Battle of Gettysburg. The goal was to make a set that could fit everything from that era conveniently and have a good degree of realism and playability.
The other factor is adaptability. Players can adjust the rules for specific things that apply to their articular armies of conflicts. Bucket O’ Muzzleblast is easily altered to fit those specifics. It can also serve as a basis from which to develop more complex games.
Bucket O’ Muzzleblast does not require much. You need two armies of at least 20 pieces each and dice and a ruler. The artillery stick is easy to make with things found around the home or office.
Unlike our OMOG Games, Bucket O’Muzzleblast is not a skirmish game. This is a battle game where troops represent larger forces. Also, unless you have a lot of room, it is best used with smaller figures. The best would be 15mm to 30mm figures, metal or plastic. You can build an army cheaply and quickly with plastic figures. There are plastic 20mm and 25mm figures from almost any conflict from the 7 Years War to the Franco-Prussian War. They make infantry, artillery and cavalry for most armies.

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

A Useful Resource for Metal Casters / Home Casters

 
For those who like to cast their own soldiers, we have a group on FaceBook. This is a place to discuss casting with metals and other substances, show your work, share tips & ideas, get help, find resources, etc.  Here is the link:
 
 
I also have a small site that explains home casting with metal. I am hoping to expand it in the near future:
 
 
 
Happy soldiering!
 
Regards,
 
Thor
 
 

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

OMOG Muskets: Game for Toy Soldier Skirmishes 1701 - 1849

The era of musket-based warfare stretched from about 1700 to the 1840s. It included the 7 Years War, American Revolution, French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars, War of 1812, the Alamo and the Mexican-American War. For those of us growing up in America, the American Revolution was one of the first things we learned in our history classes. We learned of leaders like George Washington, Nathaniel Greene, and enemies such has Burgoyne and Cornwallis. Our lessons covered battles, too: Trenton, Brandywine, Monmouth ( less than two miles from where I sit) and Yorktown. A few companies produced figures for the Revolution. Lido, MPC and Marx made sets of Revolutionary War soldiers. The Louis Marx Company also made playsets based on a popular show about that era.

Militia from Castings Inc Series 1 metal molds
One of the big things back then was the Battle of the Alamo and the War for Texas Independence. Disney produced a series about Davy Crockett starring Fess Parker. Sterling Hayden played Jim Bowie in "The Last Command." John Wayne starred in another Alamo movie in 1960. Of course, some toymakers did their part to meet the enthusiasm of the boys. The Louis Marx Company made several Alamo playsets, which included frontiersmen, a tin-litho Alamo fort and Mexican soldiers. Marx also re-arranged these things to make Zorro playsets.

Boys in Britian and Europe had their Napoleonic Soldiers and 7 Years War troops. While we in the States played our games of the Revolution and the Alamo, they fought Waterloo and the Silesian Wars. Only in the last generation or so have plastic toy Napoleonic soldiers made their way to America. Once solely the province of metal figure collectors in the US, plastic Napoleonic troops became available to wargamers here in the States. As for American companies in recent years, BMC produced affordable playsets and figures for the Revolution and The Alamo. Barszo made several of its more expensive sets for the French & Indian War and the American Revolution.

American officer figure from Dutkins mold
The style of warfare in this period was mainly a set-piece battle. Closely-formed units of infantry and cavalry were supported by artillery. Soldiers fought in tight formations. Uniforms were bright and colorful. This was a way for governments to show their wealth and power. As men fired weapons at close ranges, there was no need for concealment.

Though the larger battles were rigidly organized, there were skirmishes between small units. This was the job of light troops such as German jager and French Voltigeurs and Tirailleurs. Light troops went ahead and skirmished with the enemy. Captain Ewald, a Hessian Jager commander and light infantry expert, detailed some of these in his books.

Ewald’s Treatise on partisan warfare
http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/Treatise%20on%20Partisan%20Warfare%20by%20Ewald.pdf

His later work on light infantry (hard to read - old version from 1803)
http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/A_Treatise_Upon_the_Duties_of_Light_Troo%5B1%5D.pdf

ewald’s diary http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/Ewalds%20DIARY%20OF%20THE%20AMERICAN%20WAR.pdf

Emmerich was another German who fought in the Revolution as a leader of light infantry. Here is his treatise. this one is an easy read:

Emmerich’s Treatise on Partisan warfare http://www.loyalamericanregiment.org/The%20Partisan%20in%20War.pdf

Foraging parties, Indian raiders and scouts might get info skirmishes when encountering each other or coming across small posts guarded by enemy troops. These battles are very different from the set-piece combat of conventional warfare of the time.

OMOG Musket is a game of small unit action of the period from 1700 to 1849. The movement and terrain are like the other OMOG games. However, the game play of OMOG Muskets has been designed to reflect combat in the Musket Era. The game is easy to learn, easy to play and lots of fun. Designed to be played anywhere with whatever is at hand. You can play the conflicts of Europe, the Americas and in colonies of the time.

Download a copy here:

http://www.thortrains.net/armymen/OMOG-Muskets.pdf

http://www.thortrains.net/downloads/OMOG-Muskets.pdf

There are several companies making troops for the Musket era. A couple of very affordable brands are the Revolutionary War troops by BMC and the Frontiersman by Tim Mee (Victory Buy) These sets are in the 60mm to 65mm range. The BMC figures are a bit crude, but have a variety of poses and come in different colors and types.

Tim Mee frontiersmen from Victory Buy
Recasts of Revolutionary War figures from MPC and Marx are out there. You can also find recasts of Marx frontiersmen. There are a few hobby makers who produce Revolutionary War Figures, among the Barszo and Call to Arms / Accurate

Frontiersmen from Victory Buy - Click here

For BMC, Call to Arms MPC and recast, see Toy Soldiers depot - click here

Recasts of Timpo and Airfix Napoleonic soldiers are out there. Sets are also available from Call to Arms.

Molds for those good souls who cast their own are available from several sources. Nurnberger Meisterzinn makes a set of Seven Years War Molds that can also be used for the American Revolution. A few can even produce Napoleonic. There are in the 40-42mm scale and some are more like semi-rounds.


From Castings Inc Series 1 single cavity metal mold.
Castings Inc / REB toys had a series of metal molds that make Revolutionary War and Civil War Figures. These are the Series I single cavity molds. They make a Revolutionary War militiaman in hinting shirt, #1., British rifelman #3,.Black Watch Scotsman #5 , Pennsy Rifleman #6, Marine #8, Jersey Blues #10, Continental soldier #11, and Spanish Grenadier #12. A change in paint could turn #3, #10 and #11 into other armies. I have a lot of fun painting and casting these, by the way.

http://miniaturemolds.com/

http://www.miniaturemolds.com/Series-1-Civil-Revolutionary-War-Molds_c36.htm

Download their catalog here: http://www.miniaturemolds.com/media/Catalog0225.pdf

American Officers from Dutkins Molds
Dutkins makes a handful of Revolutionary War and French & Indian War molds. The Indians can be used for the Revolution, too. Among the figures are Rogers Rangers, Eastern Indians, Americans and British. They run a bit bigger than 54mm and the details are thick, but they paint up nice. There are infantry and cavalry figures. Dutkins also makes Napoleonic molds.

54mm molds http://www.dutkins.com/catalog/index.cfm?companyid=22

Castings Inc Revolutionary War solders from Series 1 molds
Complete catalog - http://www.dutkins.com/

Dunken makes its own molds and also carries the Irish-made Prince August Line for the US. They have a line for Alamo, and Prince August makes 7 Year War and Napoleonic 54mm. http://dunken.com/

For people in Britain and Europe, Prince August of County Cork, Ireland makes the 54mm 7 Years War and Napoleonic line as well as 40mm scale semi-round circa 1750 http://www.princeaugust.ie/
NJ soldiers from Castings Inc Series 1 mold