Saturday, October 24, 2015

Classic Hand-to-Hand Combat

Here is a reprint of an article illustrating some of the hand-to-hand combat that was developed in World war II. W.E. Fairbairn put together a set of simple, basic techniques for the Home Guard. He also taught these to the OSS at Fort Richie, PA. The combat tricks in this old article are effective and have stood the test of time. If you use them you do so at your own risk.
 
 
COMMANDO COMBAT
Reprinted from the Ordnance Soldier’s Guide, published by the Ordnance Replacement Training Center, Aberdeen Proving Grounds, Maryland, circa 1943, 1944
 
Although this is a war or machines, It is also a war of men. Hand-to-hand combat is an ever-present possibility. To help you take care of yourself In an emergency, we have condensed some excerpts from "Get Tough", a book written by Major W. E. Fair bairn of the British Army and published by D. Appleton-Century Company of New York. The methods of fighting shown here aren't pretty, but they're efficient. Just remember that you'll have to use the same tactics that your enemy uses - only you'll have to be better
 
First, you should learn that a blow struck with the edge of the hand is much mere deadly than a blow from a clenched fist. Always strike with the little-finger edge of the hand, using a chopping action from the elbow (Fig. I). You may swing vertically or side-ways, aiming for such points as the side or back of the wrist; the midpoint of the forearm; the biceps; the sides or back of the neck; the point just below the Adam's Apple, or the kidneys. Practice this blow by striking your own hand. (Fig. 2.)
 
In this fighting style, the counterpart of an uppercut is a Jab to the chin, delivered with the heel of the hand (Fig. 4). Wait until you're close to your opponent, and then drive your hand to his chin, with your fingers extended so as to reach his eyes (Fig.5). Again, you can practice on your own hand. The chin jab is most effective when combined with the dirtiest trick of fighting — a knee to the groin. Put the weight of your body on one leg, bend the knee of the other leg slightly, and drive your knee into your opponent's crotch. (Fig. 7.)
 
 
To overcome an enemy sentry, approach your opponent from behind and swing your left forearm against his throat, bearing on the Adam's Apple. At the same time, place your right elbow on his right shoulder, and place your right palm on the back of his head. Grasp your right biceps with your, loft hand and apply pressure. This will strangle him.(Fig. 9.)
 
Should he attempt resistance, change the position of your right hand so that the edge of your hard bears on the back of his head. A sharp pressure will then break his neck. (Fig. 10.)
 
In case you should become a prisoner, here's one way you can escape, using an ordinary penny matchbox as a weapon. Assume that you're sitting beside your captor, with a gun in your ribs. Grasp the box in your far hand, holding it as shown. (Fig. 11.) Quickly turn toward your opponent, sweeping the gun away with the near arm. Swing the clenched fist holding the match box so that it strikes your opponent behind the ear. Keep the arm straight, and make the movement as quickly as possible. (Fig. 12.) This usually results in a knockout blow.
 
To break a front strangle hold, (Fig. 13), grasp your opponent's right elbow with your left hand. With your right hand, reach across his arms and seize his right wrist. (Fig. 14.) Bear down on his left arm and swing his other arm toward your right side. (Fig, l5.) At the same time turn your body rapidly to the right. Finish up with an edge-of-the-hand blow to his right elbow. (Fig. 16.)
 
 
If he still shows signs of a fight, finish him off with the "Bronco Kick" This consists of a flying jump at your opponent. When jumping, bend your knees, (Fig.17), then when your feet are approximately eight inches above your opponent's body, straighten your legs, drive your heels into him and kill him. (Fig. 18.)
 
 
Copyright, 1942 by W.E. Fairbairn
 
This brief article was included in a small, mimeographed manual issued during World War II to Ordnance Personnel, circa 1943-1944. The manual included a variety of one and two page lessons on basic soldiering and ordnance work. Here is a link to the complete manual:
 
 
*****
Below are two additional techniques devised by Fairbairn.
 
 
Here is another choke defense. The soldier hits the extended arm in the crook of the elbow, and follows with a knee to the groin and an elbow to the face or chop to the neck. This is from a Danish manual that copied Fairbairn’s pictures. This could also be used against a push or grab.
 


The knee kick is simple. It is a thrust to the opponent’s knee. If he is still standing after the kick, scrape your boot down his shin and stomp his instep. Follow with a knee lift or chin jab. This picture is from Army Field Manual 21-150 Combatives, 1971 edition.
 
************
Some friends and I started looking into military systems of close combat back in the 1970s. Reprints of many of the old books became available thanks to companies like Desert Publications and Paladin Press. I also had a copy of FM 21-150 "Combatives" 1971 edition. I had learned that style of bayonet fighting and the riot baton in the Army. I later took a course with a former Marine who taught the system Dermot O’Neill taught in Shanghai.
 
The military techniques worked well enough. I used them several times in altercations. Though I was not always unscathed myself, I had the upper hand and was able to either dump the adversary or get out of trouble.
 
If you want to be an all-around kick-ass brawler, then take up a fighting sport or martial art. Expect to devote years to training and conditioning. Those who want to be neighborhood tough guys can start saving for bail money, medical bills, fines and legal fees. If you want to be able to handle a scuffle if it emerges, the military systems work well enough. A few sessions of training and occasional practice will suffice.
 
Fairbairn’s system is simple and easy to learn. It will not make you an MMA class fighter, but it will give you the means to defend yourself.
 
You may have wondered why Fairbairn does not teach a stance. In his method, a fighter went right into action. He used no stances.(Miyamoto Musashi, the 17th century Japanese Sword master who won 60 duels, said that a stance, or "attitude" is defensive. He urged moving aggressively, negating the need for a stance. I know from my own experience that a stance only warns the opponent that you are ready to fight.) There are no fancy kicks or complex throws. Fancy tricks are useless in a real fight.
 
(Back in the 80s, I was in a diner picking up containers of coffee. Through the window, I saw a plainclothes cop and his partner hassling some fellow on the street. The cop decided to show off. He whipped a couple of flashy kicks in the air. They might have flown in a dojo, but on the street in leather shoes they were awkward and the man fell on his ass. He hit the ground hard. He successfully hurt someone: himself. The fellow they tried to hassle walked away laughing while the cop’s partner radioed for medics. Fancy tricks are for the dojo, not the street.)
 
 
I have to caution readers that the methods taught by Fairbairn (and O’Neill, Styers, Applegate and Biddle) were meant to be used against a dangerous enemy. They can do serious harm to a person. Try them at your own risk. For instance, the choke / strangle taught by Fairbairn can do a lot of harm. Another nasty one is in FM-21-150, 1971 edition, in the Basic section. I have used both chokes and they will subdue an adversary like few other techniques. They can also kill or do permanent damage. Whatever you do with this information is entirely your responsibility. You have been warned.
 
 
Another piece of advice. Do not go showing off your new hand-to-hand skills at the local gin mill. At the best, you come off as a fool. At the worst, you catch a beating from someone who is a better fighter than you. Don’t think you are suddenly a super fighter, either. These lessons are for emergencies and they work best when they are a surprise.
 
 
I remember a fellow named Orville (or something like that) who had been a paratrooper. He was taught the later version of the O’Neill method in the late 1960s. The only hand strikes taught were chops and finger stabs. This fool was in a bar and overheard someone say he had studied karate. Orville kept goading the man to show his stance. The fellow finally reneged, probably just to get the clown to leave him alone. He did a stance that used closed fists. Orville thought martial arts only used the open hand, based on a few hours of instruction in Army Basic training. He accused the man of being a phoney and decided to teach him a lesson. Orville is the one who learned a lesson that day. The man he challenged had at least enough karate training to dump the ex-paratrooper.
 
 
A very wise man told me one of the best pieces of advice ever given: Don’t be stupid. Those words definitely apply here.
 
He who looks for trouble will eventually find more than he can handle.
 
 
You can find links to Applegate’s Kill or Get Killed and O’Neill’s later system here:
 
 
Here are two books worth reading:
 
 
Get Tough, also sold as All In Fighting
 
 
W.E. Fairbairn was commissioner of the Shanghai Municipal Police. He developed a hand to hand combat system for his officers. Fairbairn had degrees in Judo and Chinese Boxing. Later, he refined it for instruction to the Home Guard and military. The techniques in Get Tough, several of which were given in the above article, are easy to learn and easy to use. Get Tough and All in Fighting also include stick and knife techniques. The latter has additional info on bayonet and rifle shooting.
 
 
Charles Nelson Self-Defense: Great little system based on what O’Neill originally taught in Shanghai. I took lessons from Nelson many years ago. I still have my original copy of his "red book".
 
 
I assume no responsibility for your use of these techniques. You use them at your own risk. They are dangerous and can cause serious harm. This material is presented for information only.
 

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

OMOG and Our Other Games

OMOG and Other Games all at Once!
 
Here are two places from which you can download OMOG and our other toy soldier games
 
Jersey Shore Battle Games - easy games for kids and newcomers
Originally designed to play in the sand at the beach!
Operation Sandtrap War 2 to Present
Sandtrap Showdown Wild West and Civil War Game
Castle Cracker Medieval and Ancient game
Sandarticus Roman-era supplement to Castle Cracker
Muskets and Sandpiles revolutionary War and Alamo Game
Planetary Sand and Supplement for Space Games
Treasure of Sandheap Pirate Adventure game
Tanegashima Sandman rules for Samural Games
Sahara Sandstorm Foreign Legion and Colonial Era Game
OMOG - One Man One Gun Skirmish Games
OMOG Advanced 20th & 21st Century
OMOG 19C 19th century 1850-1900
OMOG Muskets 7101 - 1849
OMOK - One man One Knight Medieval Game
OMOG Oldstyle - Little Wars type game
This site also has other rules for Medieval, Franco-Prussian War, 20th century and Toy Soldier games.
      
Here is another place from which you can download OMOG and our other toy soldier games
Metalsmashing Medieval Wargame
Bucket O’ Muzzleblast Horse & Musket era Wargame
Hans und Panzer WW2 Armor / infantry Wargame
Hans und Panzer Afrika Korps Armor / infantry Wargame
Tankplank - armor-infantry wargame
Tankplank Advanced supplement (with Tankette Waltz)
OMOG - One Man One Gun Skirmish Games
OMOG Advanced 20th & 21st Century
OMOG 19C 19th century 1850-1900
OMOG Muskets 7101 - 1849
OMOK - One man One Knight Medieval Game
OMOG Oldstyle - Little Wars type game

Monday, September 28, 2015

Bucket O’ Muzzleblast - Miniature Wargame for 18th and 19th Century Battles

 
Among toy soldier collectors and wargamers, the era from 1740 to 1871 holds great fascination. More miniatures and game rules are sold for that era than for any other. Indeed, several of the most interesting conflicts in human history happened at that time. These include the Seven Years War, American Revolution, French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars, Crimean War and the American Civil War,
Back in 2005, I had the idea of making small, easy to learn wargames that we fun and fast paced. Bucket O’ Muzzleblast evolved from several old sets of wargame rules including one by Bob Bard for the Battle of Gettysburg. The goal was to make a set that could fit everything from that era conveniently and have a good degree of realism and playability.
The other factor is adaptability. Players can adjust the rules for specific things that apply to their articular armies of conflicts. Bucket O’ Muzzleblast is easily altered to fit those specifics. It can also serve as a basis from which to develop more complex games.
Bucket O’ Muzzleblast does not require much. You need two armies of at least 20 pieces each and dice and a ruler. The artillery stick is easy to make with things found around the home or office.
Unlike our OMOG Games, Bucket O’Muzzleblast is not a skirmish game. This is a battle game where troops represent larger forces. Also, unless you have a lot of room, it is best used with smaller figures. The best would be 15mm to 30mm figures, metal or plastic. You can build an army cheaply and quickly with plastic figures. There are plastic 20mm and 25mm figures from almost any conflict from the 7 Years War to the Franco-Prussian War. They make infantry, artillery and cavalry for most armies.

Wednesday, September 23, 2015

A Useful Resource for Metal Casters / Home Casters

 
For those who like to cast their own soldiers, we have a group on FaceBook. This is a place to discuss casting with metals and other substances, show your work, share tips & ideas, get help, find resources, etc.  Here is the link:
 
 
I also have a small site that explains home casting with metal. I am hoping to expand it in the near future:
 
 
 
Happy soldiering!
 
Regards,
 
Thor
 
 

Wednesday, September 16, 2015

OMOG Muskets: Game for Toy Soldier Skirmishes 1701 - 1849

The era of musket-based warfare stretched from about 1700 to the 1840s. It included the 7 Years War, American Revolution, French Revolution, Napoleonic Wars, War of 1812, the Alamo and the Mexican-American War. For those of us growing up in America, the American Revolution was one of the first things we learned in our history classes. We learned of leaders like George Washington, Nathaniel Greene, and enemies such has Burgoyne and Cornwallis. Our lessons covered battles, too: Trenton, Brandywine, Monmouth ( less than two miles from where I sit) and Yorktown. A few companies produced figures for the Revolution. Lido, MPC and Marx made sets of Revolutionary War soldiers. The Louis Marx Company also made playsets based on a popular show about that era.

Militia from Castings Inc Series 1 metal molds
One of the big things back then was the Battle of the Alamo and the War for Texas Independence. Disney produced a series about Davy Crockett starring Fess Parker. Sterling Hayden played Jim Bowie in "The Last Command." John Wayne starred in another Alamo movie in 1960. Of course, some toymakers did their part to meet the enthusiasm of the boys. The Louis Marx Company made several Alamo playsets, which included frontiersmen, a tin-litho Alamo fort and Mexican soldiers. Marx also re-arranged these things to make Zorro playsets.

Boys in Britian and Europe had their Napoleonic Soldiers and 7 Years War troops. While we in the States played our games of the Revolution and the Alamo, they fought Waterloo and the Silesian Wars. Only in the last generation or so have plastic toy Napoleonic soldiers made their way to America. Once solely the province of metal figure collectors in the US, plastic Napoleonic troops became available to wargamers here in the States. As for American companies in recent years, BMC produced affordable playsets and figures for the Revolution and The Alamo. Barszo made several of its more expensive sets for the French & Indian War and the American Revolution.

American officer figure from Dutkins mold
The style of warfare in this period was mainly a set-piece battle. Closely-formed units of infantry and cavalry were supported by artillery. Soldiers fought in tight formations. Uniforms were bright and colorful. This was a way for governments to show their wealth and power. As men fired weapons at close ranges, there was no need for concealment.

Though the larger battles were rigidly organized, there were skirmishes between small units. This was the job of light troops such as German jager and French Voltigeurs and Tirailleurs. Light troops went ahead and skirmished with the enemy. Captain Ewald, a Hessian Jager commander and light infantry expert, detailed some of these in his books.

Ewald’s Treatise on partisan warfare
http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/Treatise%20on%20Partisan%20Warfare%20by%20Ewald.pdf

His later work on light infantry (hard to read - old version from 1803)
http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/A_Treatise_Upon_the_Duties_of_Light_Troo%5B1%5D.pdf

ewald’s diary http://www.jaegerkorps.org/reference/Ewalds%20DIARY%20OF%20THE%20AMERICAN%20WAR.pdf

Emmerich was another German who fought in the Revolution as a leader of light infantry. Here is his treatise. this one is an easy read:

Emmerich’s Treatise on Partisan warfare http://www.loyalamericanregiment.org/The%20Partisan%20in%20War.pdf

Foraging parties, Indian raiders and scouts might get info skirmishes when encountering each other or coming across small posts guarded by enemy troops. These battles are very different from the set-piece combat of conventional warfare of the time.

OMOG Musket is a game of small unit action of the period from 1700 to 1849. The movement and terrain are like the other OMOG games. However, the game play of OMOG Muskets has been designed to reflect combat in the Musket Era. The game is easy to learn, easy to play and lots of fun. Designed to be played anywhere with whatever is at hand. You can play the conflicts of Europe, the Americas and in colonies of the time.

Download a copy here:

http://www.thortrains.net/armymen/OMOG-Muskets.pdf

http://www.thortrains.net/downloads/OMOG-Muskets.pdf

There are several companies making troops for the Musket era. A couple of very affordable brands are the Revolutionary War troops by BMC and the Frontiersman by Tim Mee (Victory Buy) These sets are in the 60mm to 65mm range. The BMC figures are a bit crude, but have a variety of poses and come in different colors and types.

Tim Mee frontiersmen from Victory Buy
Recasts of Revolutionary War figures from MPC and Marx are out there. You can also find recasts of Marx frontiersmen. There are a few hobby makers who produce Revolutionary War Figures, among the Barszo and Call to Arms / Accurate

Frontiersmen from Victory Buy - Click here

For BMC, Call to Arms MPC and recast, see Toy Soldiers depot - click here

Recasts of Timpo and Airfix Napoleonic soldiers are out there. Sets are also available from Call to Arms.

Molds for those good souls who cast their own are available from several sources. Nurnberger Meisterzinn makes a set of Seven Years War Molds that can also be used for the American Revolution. A few can even produce Napoleonic. There are in the 40-42mm scale and some are more like semi-rounds.


From Castings Inc Series 1 single cavity metal mold.
Castings Inc / REB toys had a series of metal molds that make Revolutionary War and Civil War Figures. These are the Series I single cavity molds. They make a Revolutionary War militiaman in hinting shirt, #1., British rifelman #3,.Black Watch Scotsman #5 , Pennsy Rifleman #6, Marine #8, Jersey Blues #10, Continental soldier #11, and Spanish Grenadier #12. A change in paint could turn #3, #10 and #11 into other armies. I have a lot of fun painting and casting these, by the way.

http://miniaturemolds.com/

http://www.miniaturemolds.com/Series-1-Civil-Revolutionary-War-Molds_c36.htm

Download their catalog here: http://www.miniaturemolds.com/media/Catalog0225.pdf

American Officers from Dutkins Molds
Dutkins makes a handful of Revolutionary War and French & Indian War molds. The Indians can be used for the Revolution, too. Among the figures are Rogers Rangers, Eastern Indians, Americans and British. They run a bit bigger than 54mm and the details are thick, but they paint up nice. There are infantry and cavalry figures. Dutkins also makes Napoleonic molds.

54mm molds http://www.dutkins.com/catalog/index.cfm?companyid=22

Castings Inc Revolutionary War solders from Series 1 molds
Complete catalog - http://www.dutkins.com/

Dunken makes its own molds and also carries the Irish-made Prince August Line for the US. They have a line for Alamo, and Prince August makes 7 Year War and Napoleonic 54mm. http://dunken.com/

For people in Britain and Europe, Prince August of County Cork, Ireland makes the 54mm 7 Years War and Napoleonic line as well as 40mm scale semi-round circa 1750 http://www.princeaugust.ie/
NJ soldiers from Castings Inc Series 1 mold
 

Monday, September 14, 2015


OMOG - Supplements in the Works

Three additional projects have been launched to add to the OMOG games. OMOG and OMOK are very basic skirmish games for toy soldiers. The OMOG games cover the standing armies of their times. They work because the armies of an given era tend to arm small units with comparable equipment. For instance, a squad of solders in World War II was usually 10 to 15 men, including a commander, riflemen and a three-man automatic rifle or light machine gun section. In the 19th Century, the small unit normally had the same number of men led by an officer with sword and pistol. This is all basic and allows for a simple, fast and fun game. I have purposely avoided complexities to keep OMOG and OMOK playable according to their original purpose:

Easy to play toy soldier games that can be played anywhere with a minimum of special equipment. A 6" measuring stick (any ruler will do), common 6 sided dice or home–made spinner, and a bag of army men for the game you are playing. The basic system of movement remains pretty much the same for all OMOG and OMOK games. In fact, most of the differences in each version take into account the weapons and tactics available to small units in a given era.

I already have OMOG Muskets for 1701-1849 style wars and OMOG Oldstyle for a game like Little Wars getting ready for upload.

Three things came up. Since last year, I have been working on a Space version of OMOG. I was recently asked about a Samurai and Ninja version. Then there is the matter of using OMOG 19C for colonial wars. It does not cover the native armies that were short on firearms very well. I had toyed with the idea of making entirely new games but now feel that a supplement to existing rules would be best.

OMOG Advanced covers modern combat. With a little work, the weapons firing could be converted to the use of energy weapons common to science fiction stories. Other weapons would also take a little tweaking, as would be the addition of armor for space. Things like low gravity and toxic atmosphere could also be added. The big problem is keeping it simple. I have been watching science fiction since I was a child. There were Flash Gordon and th Century, the original Battlestar Galactica, Space 1999, Starship Troopers, Space Above and Beyond, and Farscape. There is a lot and it has to be sorted out and reconciled into a single simple system. Unlike other games like Laserblade, OMOG is a squad-level battle that follows military lines. The space supplement may take a while longer.
Buck Rogers serials rerun on Saturday morning TV, Star Trek (Original, Deep Space Nine and Enterprise), Star Wars, Buck Rogers in the 25

I was asked about a Samurai Game. The more I thought about it, the more I realized that the easiest and most practical route be to would make a supplement for the OMOK Medieval Game. A Samurai Game would have to be a separate thing with a few rules unique to it to capture the flavor of the Samurai genre. The supplement would have to take into account the specialized weaponry and ways for fighting. Progress is being made..

Next comes the Colonial era of the later 19th Century There’s the Sudan, Egypt., Zulu Wars, French in North Africa, American West, India’s Northwest Frontier, Deutsche Sudwest Afrika and the Boxer Rebellion, to name a few. The OMOG 19C rules covers most of it. The trick here is to arrange numbers so that native units that are largely armed with close combat weapons can strike a balance with well-armed colonial forces. Also, working up a chart to take into account some of the unusual native weapons.

There are a few things to work up. For instance, natives would have old matchlocks or flintlock muskets to confront troops with rolling block or breech loading rifles. Some natives may also have captured rifles with very limited ammo. How to account for muskets against cartridge rifles? There are ideas, but the trick is in seeing how they work into good rules. These are games and playability is an essential consideration.

To put it bluntly, I believe that basic OMOG is a winning formula for quick, easy-to-play squad level toy soldier games. The movement system is easy to use. Shooting and resolving combat is reasonable, with various adjustments for the different eras: 1701- 1849, 1850-1901, 1901 - 2015+. and 1000 BCE to 1600 CE. There is also Old Style, which is like Little wars without actually shooting metal slugs at your costly miniatures. We can adjust it further for specific eras and conflicts. Play can be done with figures of any size. My original idea back in 2010 was to use troops from a bag of toy soldiers. They ranged from about 45mm to 60mm. Most of the common Army men were clones or copies of Tim Mee Vietnam troops, Imperial Desert Storm types and Matchbox figures/ You could also find bags of BMC and Americana Civil War, Alamo, American Revolution and World War II guys. The game can also be played with 20mm, 25mm and 30mm figures as well as 1.48 and 40mm troops.

These are infantry and horse cavalry games, so I have not included vehicles. Were I to do so, I would probably limit it to small vehicles such as Jeeps, kubelwagens, light trucks, tankettes and light tanks. The biggest of them might be an M3 Stuart, Panzer II, BT7 and Japanese Type 95. Of course, this would be a long time in coming and use of vehicles would be very limited. (If you want vehicle combat, try Tankplank and Tankplank Advanced Supplement.)

 You can find all of the current OMOG games here:








Wednesday, September 9, 2015

OMOG 19C - Toy Soldier Skirmish Game for the 19th Century (American Civil War, Colonial Wars, etc.)


For those of us of a certain age, 19th Century toy soldiering was a lot of fun. Around the one Hundredth Anniversary of the Civil War, there was great interest in the War Between the States. The toy makers responded by making Civil War soldiers and playsets. As for school, there was extra attention on the history of the war and its heroes. We learned about people such as General Grant, "Uncle Billy" Sherman, Stonewall Jackson and Robert E. Lee. Our lessons taught us about places like Bull Run, Vicksburg, Antietam and Gettysburg. Boys our age could play out the battles with bags of blue and grey soldiers. Fifty-plus years ago, we all had them.

Civil War toy soldiers could be an icebreaker. I remember when a family from North Carolina moved into our neighborhood. The boys were walking about the block when they came upon us playing with Civil War soldiers. "We have then too! If we get ours, can we play?" asked one of the boys. Soon our new friends were on the porch with us, setting up Civil War soldiers. The irony is that the same War that had our ancestors shooting at their ancestors was the thing that turned strangers to friends.

For boys in the early 1960s, all we knew of the Civil War was Blue and Gray. We did not have Zouaves or troops in Sharpshooter Green and Butternut. Most manufacturers had one set of poses that they would cast in two different colors. Lido, Tim Mee and MPC soldiers were like that. Most companies also made wagons and cannons with spoked wheels. Tim Mee merely took their green 20th Century type howitzer and fitted it with red spoked wheels., We were not all that concerned over such things. We just wanted to have fun.

Another genre we enjoyed was the Wild West. We had Cowboys, Indians and Cavalrymen. These were based more on television shows and movies about the West than the actual history of the West itself. Back when we were boys, the Wild West was very popular. Every little boy had a six-gun cap pistol and little cowboy hat.

Over the years, I had learned of other conflicts in that era from 1850 to 1900. The Crimean War pitted England, France, Turkey and Sardinia against Russia. The reality is that the war was a dark comedy of errors leading to combat casualties and even greater numbers of dead from diseases.

There were wars between Prussia and Austria, France and Austria, and Prussia versus Denmark in the years immediately following our Civil War. France and England were also involved in wars in their colonies and abroad. Among these were French adventures in North Africa and Indochina, British campaigns in Egypt, Sudan, South African and India, and joint forays into China. For boys in the United States, the one small part of all these conflicts was represented by toy Foreign Legionnaires ane Arabs. Lido and Marx made toy soldiers for the US Market, spurred on by a popular children’s television series about Captain Gallant of the French Foreign Legion.

For the US, the era ended with a war against Spain and combat in the Philippines. Britain had its Boer Wars and Germany clashed with its colonial subjects in its Sudwest Afrika territory (Today’s Namibia) Japan had its first modern war against China from 1894 to 1895. France faced troubles in its North African territories. Russia and Turkey continued to spar over the Balkans.

I took the basic OMOG combat system and tried to adapt it to the kind of warfare prevalent from 1850 to 1900. This was the era when rifles supplanted muskets. It was also a time of colonial-type conflict in Asia, Africa and the American West. Crude, early machine-guns were making their way into the battlefield as was better artillery. This is ideal for the skirmish gamer. He has a wide variety of armies from which to choose. OMOG can be used for many of them. It would work well for American, European, British, Egyptian and Indian forces. I hope to develop a more comprehensive Colonial Supplement one day to address such armies as the Zulu, Chinese Boxers, Sudanese dervishes, and so forth.

Right now, OMOG 19c Basic is ready to go. Give it a try. Tell me how you like it and what corrections you think need to be made. You can get your copies here:

http://www.thortrains.net/downloads/OMOG19C.pdf

http://www.thortrains.net/armymen/OMOG19C.pdf


For Civil War and most other soldiers of the era 1850 to 1900, click here for Toy Soldiers Depot

For Cowboys and Indians, a nice set for skirmish games can be found here: Victory Buy